Shisha Pangma (8013m) Mt Everest (8848m) Gasherbrum II (8035m) Hiddden Peak (8068m)



Samstag, 29. Juni 2013

Rope fixing to camp 3 & finishing acclimatisation

29th June, 2013
Here our plan for the next days:

30th June
Restday at BC, coiling 1000m of rope and preparing snow ankers

01st July
Leaving BC at 2:00 am to camp 1(5920m)

02nd July
Finishing the route to camp 2 (500m of rope) and setting up 7 tents at camp
2 (6500m)

03rd July
Climbing up to camp 2 with all Amical members to stay overnight

04th July
Preparing the route to camp 3 (1200m of rope). AMICAL members climb up to
camp 3 and stay one more night at camp 2

05th July
Descend from camp 2 to camp 1

06th July
Descend from camp 1 to BC

With this trip our acclimatisation will be finished and we will have to wait
for the July weather window to climb G2.
My prefered summit day would be the 11th of July.

Descend from C1 to BC in soft snow

28th July
It snowed all night long. At 4:00 we started our descend. Shortly after the
camp there is a possibility of a short cut through a crevasse.
Because of the cloudy night the snow layer was very soft. It took us 7h to
reach BC. A lot of crevasse falls happened on the way down.

AMICAL CAMP I 5920m

On June 26th we started at 2.00 from BC (5050m) to C1 (6920m) > 13 km.
At C1 we set up 7 tents.

Freitag, 28. Juni 2013

600m rope fixed on banana ridge - ice up to 70°

27th of July
At 4:00 am I started with the 3 HAP`s towards the foot of the ridge leading
to camp II (called banana-ridge). I could fix 600m of rope all the way to
the rock tower (see picture), mainly with ice srews. At 6:30 the 10 members
of the AMICAL group started from C1 and climbed the banana up to 6300m. In
the afternoon the weather changed and snowfall started.

Donnerstag, 27. Juni 2013

PIEPS GlobalFinder message from: 210049

600m ROPE FIXED - BANANA RIDGE ICY - HIGHPOINT REACHED 6250m - ALL AMICAL MEMBERS

210049 has sent this message on: 27-06-2013 06:14:16 UTC
from position: latitude 35.72985°, longitude 76.64441°, altitude 5908m

position lat:35.72985 lon:76.64441


You are welcomed to check 210049 shared track Gasherbrum I und II Expedition.


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Mittwoch, 26. Juni 2013

PIEPS GlobalFinder message from: 210049

BETWEEN 9:00 AND 11:00 all 10 AMICAL MEMBERS, THE 3 PORTERS AND MYSELFE REACHED CAMP1

210049 has sent this message on: 26-06-2013 06:20:45 UTC
from position: latitude 35.72972°, longitude 76.64434°, altitude 5909m

position lat:35.72972 lon:76.64434


You are welcomed to check 210049 shared track Gasherbrum I und II Expedition.


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Dienstag, 25. Juni 2013

Setting up camp 1

Today we took a rest day.
The plan for the next days is to overnight in camp 1 and to start preparing
the route to camp 2 :

25/06 rest day - information about AMS, HAPE, HACE , prevention and
treatment - usage of oxygen system
26/06 start 1:30 from BC to C 1 - set up tents in C 1 - overnight
27/06 acclimatisation walk towards gasherbrum I / fixing 600m of rope
towards camp 2 - overnight
28/06 start 4:00 from C1 to BC
29/06 rest day

AMICAL opened way to Camp 1

Yesterday at 1:30 we started at BC. The members of the AMICAL expedition
climbed to our depot tent at 5550m and stored equipment.
The 3 HAP`s and I tried to find a way from 5550m to camp 1 at 5920m. The
main goal was to avoid a track too close to Gasherbrum V (avalanch danger).
We found a way through the glacier at least 500m away from G V. By 8:00 we
reached the site of camp 1 and set up a tent. At 9:00 we startet our descend
down to basecamp. We reached the upper edge of the icefall at 11.00. It was
already extremly warm, the snow was wet and soft. After 4h in knee deep snow
conditions and 7 crevasse falls we finally reached basecamp.

Approach trek from Askole to Gasherbrum BC

14/06 From Skardu by jeep to Askole
Distance of 120 km.
4 landslides.
Two times road was washed away by the river. In between four pick up jeeps
carried loads and people. 30 min walk to campsite at Askole.
Weighing the loads. 25 kg per porter.
96 porters and 16 donkeys will carry our expedition load.

15/06 Askole (3050m) to Johla (3150m)
The 21 km we managed in 7 hours. Half way we had lunch at Korophon.
Just before reaching the lunch spot a big river had to be crossed. The water
was very, very cold and our underwear got wet. Further up the trail we met
David Lama and his film team who are on the way to Masherbrum.

h116/06 Johla (3150m) to Paiju (3400m)
Today we got up at 4:30 and reached Paiju at 13:30. Lunchplace was near
Bardumal.. The whole day it was rainy. For hiking the 22km we needed 7
hours.
In the afternoon the sun came out.

17/06 Restday at Paiju (3400m)
Today the porters prepared their foof for the upcoming days on the glacier.
They got flour to bake chapaties and two goats.
Some of the AMICAL members went up to a view point (3650m) their K2 and
Broad Peak is visible. I checked the route to the glacier.
It was a warm and sunny day without wind.

18/06 Paiju (3400m) to Urdokas (4050m)
From midnight on it was raining. We got up at 4:00 and waited until 6:00
when the rain stopped. After one hour we reached the Baltoro Glacier, which
we had to cross to the other side. We passed camp Liligo and had lunch at
camp Korbuche. At 15:30 we reached Urdokas in light snowfall.
This day was the hardest day of the trek: 21 km, 900 Hm, 8 h

19/06 Urdokas (4050m) to Gore II (4300m)
We started at 5:45 together with David Lama who went to the NO-wall of
Masherbrum. We had an early lunch at Gore I and reached Gore II at 13:30.
In the afternoon I had to treat around 20 porters with health problems.
The 14 km we did in 5,5 h.

20/06 Gore II (4300m) to Shagrin (4750m) via Konkordia (4600m)
Start at 6:00 with perfect weather. Soon Broad Peak was visible and then at
Konkordia K2 came in our sight. After lunch we crossed Konkordia and turned
in direction to Chogolisa (several crevasses). At 15:00 we reached Shagrin
( 20 km / 8 h).

21/06 Shagrin (4750m) to Gasherbrum I & II BC (5050m)
Early in the morning at 4:30 I started with HAP Ali to look for a good place
for our basecamp. After two hours walking we turned left on the middle
morain of the Abruzi Glacier. From 5000m on there are campsites. We were
looking for a place close to the icefall and flat enough for setting up our
dome tent. There was already a small camp on the morain which belonged to
Artur Haizer and his climbing partner (Poland). Just above their campsite we
found the site of our basecamp for this season. An hour later the first
porters arrived. Finally 82 porters and 15 donkeys reached BC. The members
of AMICAL needed 4 h for the 12km from Shagrin and arrived at 10:00.

Montag, 24. Juni 2013

PIEPS GlobalFinder message from: 210049

CAMP1 WE MADE IT !!! 5920m 13 km vom BC 6h

210049 has sent this message on: 24-06-2013 14:29:51 UTC
from position: latitude 35.68605°, longitude 76.64809°, altitude 5041m

position lat:35.68605 lon:76.64809


You are welcomed to check 210049 shared track Gasherbrum I und II Expedition.


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Sonntag, 23. Juni 2013

Route through G2-icefall is open

This morning at 4:00 am I started togther with our HAP`s Ali, Yusuf and Said
to search for a route through the icefall. By 8:00 we reached an altitude of
5550m where we set up a tent. The icefall this year is quite tricky, a lot
of open crevasses. The route so far is marked with 50 bamboo wands.
Tonight at 1:30 we will start again and set up camp1. The AMICAL members
will join us and carry some equipment to our tent at 5550m. Because it is so
hot one has to start with the descent by 8:00 am. By 11:00 am the snow is
getting very soft. Today I had three crevasse falls on the way down to BC.

Samstag, 22. Juni 2013

Best LO in Pakistan !

Every expedition in Pakistan has to be accompanied by an officer of the
Pakistan army, called LO. This time we have a lot of luck with our LO. Aized
is an army jet pilot. Today he organized a Pakistan flag at the nearby army
post. Klaus from South Tyrolia organized a hughe bamboo pole and they both
set their flags at our basecamp.
Tomorrow Aized will join us on a walk through the icefall - his first
glacier trip.
I will get up at 3:00 am and try to find a route through the icefall
together with our three HAP`s.

AMICAL Gasherbrum I & II team is ready

10 climbers from Germany and Italy
3 high altitude porters
1 cook
3 kitchen helpers
expedition leader Thomas laemmle
(sponsored by Sherpa Adventure Gear and SCARPA)

Today we set up shower tent and dome tent

Freitag, 21. Juni 2013

Gasherbrum I or Hidden Peak - view from my tent

Setting up BC & 1. lunch at BC

With 82 porters and 15 donkeys we arrived at Gasherbrum BC (5050m)

After a 4h walk from Shagrin we arrived this morning on the middle morain of
the Abruzzi Glacier and set up our basecamp at an altitude of 5050m just
above Artur Haizer`s two man expedition. The weather ist great, no wind, no
clouds and full moon.
Tomorrow we will set up our dome tent and day afzter tomorrow I will already
start to find a route through the icefall.
Pictures and details about our aproach trekking i will send tomorrow.

Donnerstag, 20. Juni 2013

PIEPS GlobalFinder message from: 210049

10:30 LUNCH AM KONKORDIAPLATZ BLAUER HIMMEL WINDSTILL , K2, BROAD PEAK , G4

210049 has sent this message on: 20-06-2013 15:10:53 UTC
from position: latitude 35.71072°, longitude 76.565°, altitude 4744m

position lat:35.71072 lon:76.565


You are welcomed to check 210049 shared track Gasherbrum I und II Expedition.


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Sonntag, 16. Juni 2013

PIEPS GlobalFinder message from: 210049

NEWS ABOUT THE EXPEDITION SEE : http://public.pieps.net/Share/Track/7D1A014CGEWARAGS

210049 has sent this message on: 16-06-2013 16:58:26 UTC
from position: latitude 35.67702°, longitude 76.12572°, altitude 3394m

position lat:35.67702 lon:76.12572


You are welcomed to check 210049 shared track Gasherbrum I und II Expedition.


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Donnerstag, 13. Juni 2013

Our hotel above the river

Tomorrow at 4:30 we start to Askole

Tonight at 22:00 we got the Expedition briefing at the home of the minister.
Now we can leave to the starting point of the approach trek, to Askole.
Because the road is blocked at two places we have to leave at 4:00 am. Between the landslides the luggage has to be transported by porters.
I hope we will reach Askole until evening. Inshala


4x8000.blogspot.com

Back to the hotel with a local taxi

The main group was hiking today arround Shangri La hotel and had a chance to swim in a lake.

Training our three Pakistani "sherpas"

MHW Dome tent

Cleaning and checking stored equipment

Our partner agency in Pakistan